Buon Ferragosto!

Strait of Messina

Tyrrhenian Sea (photo by Carlo Audino)

The 15th of August is when Italy truly unites as one country by coming to a complete halt insieme (together) with regards to work, studies or any routine that does not involve rest. Cities may even feel at a standstill this time of year because that’s how serious Italians take Ferragosto. Families (like my own) would reunite during August, annually. In fact, most of my neighborhood in Brooklyn would empty out because every family would return to Italia in summer. I have very vivid memories of returning to Italy every summer in the 70s and 80s. We would fly out of JFK Airport directly to Rome to then transfer and board another flight from Rome to Lamezia (there are no direct flights from NYC to Calabria even today and that’s due to the low number of Calabrians who emigrated to NYC, but that’s another blog post). Sometimes we would fly with my father and sometimes without depending on his work schedule. If without, he would always join us by the time Ferragosto began because Italians take Ferragosto very seriously, especially those living outside of Italy. Ferragosto was a time to return to your family, friends and culture. There was a longing for the homeland expressed via visits during the summer months. Spending time with my Calabrian family and friends was something I looked forward to every year plus it was expected that we would return. Why would we not return to Italy? During Ferragosto, our day would begin with coffee and fresh figs, then we’d all crowd into my uncle’s tiny Fiat and head towards la spiaggia together not too far away where we’d play on the rocky beaches till noon. After noon, we returned home to enjoy pranzo (lunch) al fresco under the Calabrian sun (shielded by my family’s pergola of course). I remember enjoying pasta, sliced tomatoes, cheese, latte di mandorla and watermelons. So many watermelons! After pranzo, siesta would begin because it’s too hot outdoors (siesta was invented for this very reason to avoid the high temps which is very civilized). Window gates were shut, the house became dark and everyone napped on whatever surface was readily available. Once awake, espresso was brewed and we all got dressed to go right back outside because now it was cool enough to go outdoors. Off to the beach once again, however, this time the beach (aka lungomare) was lit with discotecas playing songs by Umberto Tozzi and Loredana Berté, gelaterias and even rides for us kids to enjoy. The boardwalk became electric and crowded with people everywhere. Laughing, talking and gesticulating up a storm with each other. All smiles, fun and even fireworks every single night.

From ancient Roman roots to today’s vibrant festivities, Ferragosto is a time honored holiday where Italians come together and celebrate summer recreationally. Ferragosto began in 18 BCE. The word "Ferragosto" comes from the Latin "Feriae Augusti" meaning "Festivals of Augustus." It originally referred to a series of pagan festivals and celebrations held throughout Roman Italy during the month of August in honor of the Emperor Augustus. These pagan festivities celebrated life and harvest including one, of many, honoring Goddess of the hunt: Diana. Romans adorned themselves with flowers and held torches and candles at nighttime. During those days, it was forbidden to hunt and dogs too were adorned with flowers. The summer holiday wasn’t just one day, but almost an entire month. Everyone was allowed to rest from work and party, even slaves.

As the centuries passed, Italy took on many changes and new traditions formed. In the 6th century, the Catholic Church was writing the calendar, so the 15th of August had become the day chosen to celebrate the Assumption of Mary, the ascent to heaven of the mother. As pagan festivities were replaced, there was no more mention of the Goddess Diana (not by name anyway) and especially not from the Catholic church.

Tropea

Fascist Italy in the 1930’s arrived and the gita fuori porta (a day out of town) takes shape. Going out of town was an activity heavily endorsed by Mussolini during the early years of fascism, where train tickets were reduced in price allowing the less privileged (and there were many) a day off. The program was called Treni Speciali Celeri per Servizi Festivi Popolari (Special Express Trains for Popular Holiday Services) from 1931 to 1939. Many Italians could afford the reduced train ticket price but they couldn’t exactly afford a restaurant so they packed their own meals to their seaside destinations which formed a new tradition that still continues today.

In 21st century Italy, Ferragosto has evolved into a major public holiday. It marks the peak of the summer vacation season, and many Italians take this time to go on holiday and reunite with family and friends. It’s no longer a month long celebration like ancient times but it is a celebration for a solid couple of weeks. It's a time when cities become quieter as people head to the coast or the countryside en masse to simply relax and unwind.

Many businesses, shops and offices close during Ferragosto as people take advantage of the opportunity to enjoy a legitimate break. It's also a period when events, festivals and cultural activities are organized across the country. I remember live performances in nearby towns along the Ionian coast where artists of all kinds from around the world would visit and perform. In some regions, there are traditional celebrations associated with Ferragosto, such as processions, religious events and feasts. Overall, Ferragosto is a significant holiday in Italy, offering a chance for people to take a break from their daily routines and enjoy the summer season and it began today, the 15th, officially. Buon Ferragosto a tutti!