Fresh Fileja Pasta with Lamb Ragu
Depending on where you are in Calabria, the meat preference varies.
Although pork pretty much dominates the region, further south (particularly in the province of Reggio), Calabrians will typically opt for lamb or goat when cooking home cooked meals in general. This is due to both geography and cultural influences. Geographically, the area is dry and arid which, some say, favors raising sheep rather than pigs. Culturally, lamb and goats were favored by the Greeks as a matter of preference whereas the Jewish and Arab communities consider pork to be taboo.
Pasta, throughout southern Italy, combines just semolina, salt and water and no eggs at all. This is due to being able to preserve the pasta for long periods of time which you can not do when involving eggs or dairy. Calabrians are masters at preserving foods and it is evidenced with most of their recipes.
INGREDIENTS
FILEJA PASTA
2 cups semolina flour + extra for dusting
1/2 cup + 1 tbsp tepid water, as needed
1 tsp olive oil
pinch of salt
1-2 knitting needles (#1) or skewers
Fileja Pasta (if you don’t want to make your own)
RAGÙ
3 lbs lamb shoulder
2 onions, chopped
4 sprigs rosemary
2 tbsp Calabrian chili flakes, optional
1/4 cup EVOO
1 cup dry red wine
32 oz Crushed Tomatoes
sea salt
PREPARATION
PASTA DOUGH
Mix the flour and salt in a bowl, make a well in the center, and put the water in the well. Mix with one hand until you have a rough dough. Continue mixing and kneading with one hand until the dough comes off clean from the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and knead with both hands until the dough is firm, smooth, and not sticky (about 10 minutes). The dough will be stiff and difficult to work at first, but just keep at it. If it fails to come together into a smooth dough after a few minutes of kneading, sprinkle some water. Shape the dough into a ball, cover the surface with plastic wrap, and let it rest for 30 minutes.
SHAPING THE FILEJA PASTA
Working in small batches (keep the rest covered with a kitchen towel). Cut off a piece of the dough and roll it into a thick-like rope shape (about 3/8 inch thick). Cut the shape into 3 to 3 1/2-inch-long pieces. Working with one piece at a time, gently press a knitting needle into the center of the dough lengthwise. With the palms of both hands, begin rolling the dough around the needle away from you, stretching it along the needle as you roll, until it is about 5-6 inches long. With one hand, quickly slide the pasta off the needle and place it on top of a tray dusted with semolina (add more semolina as needed) until ready to cook. If the dough is made just right and you don’t press too hard as you roll, the pasta will come off the needle easily. Repeat with the remaining dough. The fileja may be prepared up to 4 hours ahead and left uncovered at room temperature. (You can also leave the dough in the fridge for up to 1 week.)
MAKE THE RAGU
Marinate the lamb in red wine for 1 hour. After marinating, season with salt.
Heat a heavy pot over high heat. Add the EVOO. When oil’s hot, add onions and saute for about 8-10 minutes. Add the lamb and brown the sides (about 10 minutes). Stir in the crushed tomatoes. Add rosemary sprigs, chili peppers and 2 teaspoons of salt. Cover and reduce heat to let simmer. Cook until the meat is tender (about 1.5 hours). The sauce should be thick enough to coat the pasta nicely. If it’s too thin, cook uncovered for a bit to reduce it. Taste and adjust seasoning to your preference.
COOK THE PASTA
Bring 5 quarts of well salted water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the fresh fileja pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente (about 5-7 minutes). Drain and transfer the fileja to a serving bowl, add 1-1/2 cups of the lamb ragu (or more if you prefer it very saucy). Toss and serve immediately.